Tuesday, February 08, 2005

surfing with uncle

happy teusday to you!=) yes...it is another glorious day in Hawaii nei!! ...unfortunately i am indoors...working. but...work is good!=) i'm pretty sure that i will not find myself in the water today=(...too much to do! but i will tell you about yesterday...

yesterday sarah and i surfed marine's. as we were getting in the water we noticed "uncle." uncle is pretty much a permanent fixture at straight outs. sarah and i met him there a couple years back and he has been a wonderful surf companion. he is dark skinned with short, but somewhat shaggy, dark hair, and has a mustache. he has a voice that rings out accross the waters of the south shore and a smile that warms the soul. he is a longboarder. sarah and i are shortboarders. usually this small fact can be the source of initial, and often unspoken, division between surfers. i our case however, i get the feeling that uncle saw us as people...and not shortboarders. and that is why we enjoy the waves and our fair share of conversation on a regular basis.

the waves where good when we got in. solid 2 feet with occasional pluses rolling through. the sky was just about cloud free and beautifully blue. the water was the same. at first sarah and i were joined only by one lone longboarder. and we enjoyed the abundance of wonderful waves. the lack of a crowd didn't last long, however=(. before we knew it we were joined by the "army." sarah and i had a great time talking story...catching up...laughing out loud toghether!! it was the best!

the highlight of the session was when we saw this longboarder guy...we named him "rainbow-board"...because he had a rainbow board. and he was trying to drop back into this wave that he was on. he had a pretty wide (wider than shoulder length) stance on the board, his elbows were bent at a ninety-degree angle putting his forearms out in front of him, and his wrists were bent straight down, pointing his fingertips towards the water. ...add to that magnificant sight a bobbing up and down motion at the knees and the neck...and...well...if sarah and i had fallen off of our boards we would have drowned!=) we titled his signature move, "the praying mantis!" definitely something sarah and i will have to perfect in the sessions to come!!=) well...as time went on, the waves dropped and became inconsistent. it was time to go in.

i suppose uncle felt the same way. he reached the inside just as sarah and i did. and after his initial, "yeeehiiiii!! ho!...we stay pau at da same time, eh!!!??," we paddled further in to the rock wall together and climbed out of the pacific. ...it was a great day!=)


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