Monday, April 11, 2005

little south bump

this past weekend has been a refreshing one for surfers. ...unfortunately it was a refreshing one for ALL surfers.=) i surfed friday afternoon and it was pretty small ( crowd), but amazingly clean! the sky was grey and there was a slight drizzle...but no wind. ...and the right off of reniks were long and holding. all in all it was a great day! ...first time surfing in about a week and a half. then it started...

i surfed satruday morning. it was a consistent foot bigger and beautifully sunny. still not too many people in the line up. i had the rights off of straight outs all to myself! it was sick and shallow!! i returned to kewalos later that afternoon at about 3:45. this visit to my normal surf spot wasn't to surf, was for a photo shoot. i was meeting faye to shoot some pics for the cd project. so...i had no board, no board shorts.=( i was in jeans and a short sleeve button down hurley shirt. i felt way overdressed.

but i was there for a different occasion. too bad, cause by this time it was a consistent head high from marine land to reniks and seriously overhead at the point. the point was so least 50 people. ...waikiki rules were in effect with 3-4 people dropping in on every wave. i tried my best to focus on the shoot, but it was hard.=) i told myself that tomorrow was another day. and it was.

after church i headed down to kewalos. finding a parking space was a chore that demanded patience...just like the day before. God provided, and within minutes i was in the water paddling out to reniks. this time i had sarah's 5.10...another Jesus board! ...the most recent. it was nice! a bit small for me, but oh so fast coming down the line.

as i paddled out there i couldn't stop smiling! it was an all teeth kinda day. waves were every were the surfers. but it was alright. i surfed reniks with about 6 other guys. when we had a lul between sets we would look over at the point to watch the crowds fight it out for waves. the wave of the day goes to the longboarder at the point who took off so steep, i thought he'd never make it. well, he did. he crouched down to grab his rail and the lip pitched over him. he rode it for awhile too...just burried so deep. and he almost made it out. we were all yelling and cheering all the way from reniks. it was great!

well, i'm going to be heading into town to meet up with brian at cliffs, then i'll probably hook up with sarah after work (3pm) for another one. hope you have a blessed day! i'll write again soon!